Whilst the G7 is not as cleaned up as the G9, it's not speckled like the G5. By default Lumix NR is a bit too aggressive, turn it down for less artefacts. You won't have AF with it on a telescope but it does mean the focus peaking will work reliably. ![]() The Lumix G7 and later Lumix have "Starlight AF". ![]() MFT can shoot video at night in a tent lit by a candle, news reporters have relied on that. LMOS sweeps stray electrons off the sensor, CMOS does not. The smaller the size, the less heat produced, the less noise. To uncorrect the DxO number multiply by 3.98 and you will see they are a lot better in low light than FF sensors. There is even a code of practice that says thou shalt never, ever, never, correct for sensor size. If you know anything about photon sensor testing you know that is a massive no-no. I'm afraid DxO smite MFT by correcting the low light (sports) performance for sensor size. So you don't have to make any mods but doesn't get round the tracking issue. You can use a 1.25" prime focus adapter in combination with the above adapter, like this: Plus using the barlow will only make matters much worse, amplifying the problem. It follows the stars in a stepped motion. Which is okay for lunar imaging but the mount/telescope are going to be an issue if you want to image galaxies, clusters or nebula as its an AltAz tracking mount. That adapter will let you attach the Fuji to the barlow. The downside is i doubt any of the astro software is geared to Fuji.Īdapters needed for Fuji are readily available on Ebay. It's a fully manual camera, noise reduction can be completely turned off. Plus it has excellent Liveview, great LCD. Such as very small size and weight, so less stress on the telescope. Definitely worthwhile, the X-A3 will be as capable as any APS-C Canon or Nikon DSLR but with some added bonuses.
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